Carol Gough interviews Nigel Tonkin
| Carol: | How did you commence in the hobby? Where did your first birds come from? What bloodlines are your English birds? |
| Nigel: |
I started in the hobby initially because of ill health. I was serving in the RAAF, working a second job and doing other part time work, consequently my body could not take it and I had a nervous breakdown. I guess a few hours sleep per day was not enough and the battery went flat. I was basically told, after a lengthy stay in hospital, to change my lifestyle and attempt to find a relaxing hobby.
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| Carol: | What is the feeding programme you use during the breeding / non-breeding season? |
| Nigel: | The feeding programme that I have used in past years has been totally modified this past season (1998). I have a very close friendship with Frank Silva and his lovely family and we keep in regular contact. I could not believe the numbers of chicks he was producing and chicks of quality. He gave me the 'recipe' that he uses for a soft food. Being somewhat busy, I could not keep up the routine of making the mix so I went searching for a 'manufactured' equivalent. In the 'sample bags' given out at the N.S.W. hosted nationals in May of 1998, there was a product called Budgie Starter which was available from Bruce Chapman of Petcare Direct Pty. Ltd. a sponsor of the Australian National Championship Show. This product is manufactured in Adelaide by Passwell Pty. Ltd.. The following in an extract from the information sheet on this product. "In the wild, budgies feed their chicks a high protein diet of seeds, fruits and insects and although caged budgies may be genetically removed from their wild ancestors, they do retain much of the wild bird digestive physiology. The addition of insects to the diet not only increases the quantity of protein but also improves the quality. This means that breeding budgies need a supplement that contains a higher level of better quality protein than the normal seed diet". Budgie Starter is in granular powder form and has a minimum crude protein content of 22%. It is a product that is recommended to use without additives but I do add 3 hard-boiled eggs to 3 cups of the granular powder and further to that I add 3 cups of sprouted seed that has been rinsed and left to drain for approximately 5 minutes. All of this is mixed together and fed to the birds ? whatever is mixed is used. I find that most of the birds consume the majority of what is on offer. This mix is fed each morning and sprouted seed is fed each evening. All breeding cages and aviaries have separate containers of Plain Canary, Jap Millet, White French Millet, Red Panicum, Bandicoot Oats (Garlic oil or Combi oil [a blend of 8 seed oils] is added to this-these two products are available from Mineral Energy in Victoria) and Grey Striped Sunflower. The birds are also given an even mix of Canary, White French and Jap Millet to which Cod Liver Oil and Wheatgerm is added. Finger drawers supply (a) 2 types of hard grit, one from Broken Hill and the other from Adelaide, Budgie Bill from Broken Hill grades and sells these grits. (b) wild seeds from Pepper's Millet Spray Supplies of N.S.W., (c) Linseed and Rape seed ? the latter is not consumed readily and is likely to disappear from the scene soon. Cuttlefish, calcium bells (Iodine and charcoal) are also used. Silver-beet is fed each morning, gum branches / leaves are presented weekly to fortnightly and lucerne (fresh) again weekly to fortnightly. 1/8th of a lemon is fed to each breeding cage per week and a lemon to each aviary over the same time span. I add Pentavite to the water daily and Vitamin B12 three times / week. I had been using other products previously. Over the last two year of its use I had a number of birds with deformed legs and wings-I could not guarantee that the birds were getting too much or not enough of anything, but my vet thought the signs were that there was too much of a particular substance. I had 20 odd birds afflicted the first year and 35 odd the second, up until that stage there had been no perceived problems. This season I have bred 130 chicks more than normal and to this point there have been no problems. The only difference to the diet in the 'off' season is there is a reduction in the bandicoot oats and the sprouted seed and the water is presented free of vitamins. |
| Carol: | How do you prepare your birds for the breeding season? |
| Nigel: | My preparation for the breeding season is on going. I am always mentally pairing birds throughout the year. The breeding season proper probably starts a lot later for me than a number of exhibitors ? I rely on nature a fair amount. When I see the 'local' birds building their nests, it is usually pretty close to pairing up time for me, assuming that the budgerigars are in good breeding condition themselves. Some years it might be late July, other years it might be as late as the end of August. Not all are paired at once, as they come into condition, they are paired, thus some pairings are as late as November / December. A number of pairs only have one round taken from them. Pairing this late creates a slight problem when aiming to exhibit. I miss most of the 'early' shows, although the 'spill over' from December are rung in January with the new issue of rings and there is always a possibility of producing one or two for the Shows for the following season. I guess I have diverted from your question, so back to the preparation. I usually put a large block of hardwood with thick bark in each aviary around late June early July, I also separate the Cocks from the Hens at this time. I keep the mature young birds separated from the adult birds. From mid June to early July through to the completion of the breeding season vitamins are added to the water plus the bandicoot oats and the sprouted seed volume is increased |
| Carol: | When pairing up, do you go by pedigree or visual appearances? How closely do you mate your birds and what relative matings have been your most successful? |
| Nigel: |
I go by both I guess, initially visually then genetically. In the main, most of my birds have a common genetic background (Williams, Endres & Molkentin). Mannes bred birds purchased from Ernie Sigston probably have had the most recent positive impact in my aviaries or should I say the sons and daughters and grand sons and grand daughters of a particular Cinnamon Grey Cock have. A Grey Green Cock, purchased by the Bridgeman family at the same time as the Cinnamon Grey, and related, produced some quality for me last year. Unfortunately he has not produced since and neither have many of his offspring, but I guess there is always next year and AI to try, if necessary. Another great purchase was a small, non-visual Spangle Yellow Face Grey Hen from Rodney Harris that had super parents, she was paired to the Cinnamon Grey Cock and the Jackpot was hit, she also saw the Kellet Grey Cock, another jackpot. These birds progeny have blended so well with the Endres / Molkentin / Williams birds that had already blended with Sadler / Joines and my original line. The Silva and the Attwood progeny were also receptive to these birds. Both Jim Hutton and Brian Byles were each generous in releasing a quality Mannes bred hen to me ? these did not produce large numbers but their progeny has been very useful nevertheless. I pair Father to Daughter, Mother to Son, Brother to Sister (rarely and not for some while), Cousins (close and distant), Uncles & Aunts to Nieces & Nephews. I have had reasonable success with all of the pairings but the best would be Cousin to Cousin thus far. The Brother to Sister mating has given mixed results, one mating many years back just produced absolute garbage with secondaries the length of primary flights, beaky ? just horrible. That family was declared out of bounds and disposed of. |
| Carol: | Please describe your aviary ? construction materials, size, flights, nest box and breeding cage design, number of cages etc. |
| Nigel: | My complex is hard to describe without diagrams so that would be the best way, in part, to approach this question. The complex has brick external walls, the breeding rooms have stone internal walls that are covered in white bathroom tiles, most of the complex has match lining ceilings with insulation. Skylights introduce plenty of light (I had heavy duty rubber 'shade cloth' manufactured to cover the sky-lights in the summer months), the main breeding room is air-conditioned (rarely used), there are 3 airpurifier / ionisers, 7 pedestal fans, 2 industrial wind driven 'whirlies', 2 radios a fridge and a phone. All aviaries can drain into grated pits that have underground pipes that connect to the sewerage. There is a pit prior to an 'S bend' that catches seed husks etc, this requires emptying about once every 6 weeks. There are 8 aviaries (4 now have 1mt of opening to the weather), 1 quarantine aviary, 3 nursery cages, 1 hospital cage, 66 wire breeding cages (600mm wide x 350mm high x 350mm deep), 66 plastic nest boxes with 45 mm thick redgum or pinus radiata concaves. It took me a number of years to get the complex to where it is today, I guess I will make further modifications when I see fit. |
Plan of aviaries and breeding rooms
| Carol: | Do you use preventative medication during and pre breeding season and if so what and why? |
| Nigel: | I usually treat all of the birds with Psittavet (Doxycycline hydrochloride 40mg/g) a Vetafarm product, twice a year, once prior to the breeding season and once midstream of the breeding season. This treatment is for 7 days at a time and appears to have reduced chick mortality considerably. |
| Carol: | How many chicks and rounds do you allow your birds? |
| Nigel: | Most birds that I pair have one round only but some will go 2 and the odd one might get three. I usually try and have 5 chicks per feeding pair. |
| Carol | What are your favourite varieties and for each may I have the biggest problem with this variety and how you go about improving this feature? |
| Nigel: | I guess I have a love for the Spangle. Don't ask me why, but I do. I have had reasonable success on the show bench with the variety over a number of years. The hardest thing to retain / obtain on this variety is the wing markings and the correct throat spots. I guess we should take some advice from JO Mannes, who suggested to me to pair Spangle to Spangle and then pair the Double factors produced, back to quality Normals to improve the wing markings and no doubt the quality of the budgerigar overall. I don't think that the Opaline or the Cinnamon varieties are good for the purpose of the exhibition Spangle and the clarity of the required markings, but I do have a few of these that are reasonable budgerigars. I also like Normals plus, the Cinnamons, Opalines, Dominant Pied and the Recessive Pieds. On the Show bench, I just love seeing a good budgerigar regardless of the variety. |
| Carol: | We always seem to have problems with Clearwings (markings on wings), Greywings (dilutes) and Black Eyed Selfs (Grey Yellows) on the show bench ? what can we do to overcome this problem? |
| Nigel: |
This is a story in its self. I will refer to a chapter 8 of the book Genetics for Budgerigar Breeders by T.G. Taylor, M.A., Ph. D. and C. Warner. The title of the Chapter is Multiple Allelomorphs. I will short cut the chapter for way of explanation. This chapter considers a series of multiple allelomorphs that are responsible for regulating the intensity of colour on the wings and body of budgerigars. Birds of the normal Green and Blue series have black wing markings and 'full strength' body colour. It is the particular distribution of melanin pigment which determines this normal pattern. Various changes can occur in the distribution of the pigment granules, changes that result in the formation of Greywings, Clearwings and Dilutes (Whites & Yellow)[and one could slot the 'Australian' Black Eyed Self into this group]. They are caused by different mutations of one and the same gene, they thus form a series of multiple allelomorphs. These allelomorphs or alleles for short, produce the same sort of effect, i.e., a reduction in the number of pigment granules, but to differing degrees. In the Greywing and Dilutes, the reduction in melanin is uniform throughout the wings and body, but in Clearwings, the melanin in the body feathers is only slightly reduced, while that in the wing feathers is reduced to an extent similar to that observed in Dilutes. The relationship between Greywing and Clearwing is interesting in that neither one is completely dominant to the other. When a pure-breeding Clearwing is mated to a pure-breeding Greywing, all of the young are known as Full-bodied Greywing, in which the body colour is that of a Clearwing, while the intensity of wing markings is that of a Greywing. Dilute is the most recessive gene of the multiple series. Dilutes of the Green series are known as "Yellows" and those of the Blue series, as "Whites". Australia may have created a rod for its own back by promoting / accepting
and in fact standardizing the combination of two mutations / varieties.
The original mutation of Greywing did not have 'Body Colour: approaching
full intensity' but 50% body colour was deemed as the norm. As is previously
mentioned, by combining the Clearwing with the Greywing the end result
was a bird with grey wings and close to a normal body colour. I am not
one for the changing of The Standard from an original
mutation, the mutation should become The Standard and
we should aim to keep it as pure and perfect to its origins as possible. |
| Carol: | Where can you see the fancy heading especially with so many fanciers leaving the hobby? |
| Nigel: | I am not sure what we can do to stop the decline. Are we, the high profile fanciers charging too much for our birds? Are the many auctions where in excess of $1,000.00 is being paid for individual birds the cause? Are we not sponsoring Juniors? Is the hobby now a business? Is greed the problem? I am not sure but it is a big worry. |
| Carol: | What is the greatest asset of being in the fancy? |
| Nigel: | I love the social side of the fancy. I prefer to judge than exhibit. The hobby is a great leveler. I enjoy the travel, be it intrastate, interstate or overseas. I have met some of the most wonderful people going around and some absolute sods. |
| Carol: | What is the benefit of having the National show each year? |
| Nigel: | The National show brings together a group of dedicated fanciers annually for a great social event, which has a competitive spirit. It gives the opportunity to compare some of the best birds of different varieties it the country. I have grave concerns though, that we are pricing the Nationals out of the reach of a number of fanciers. States / Zones appear to compete to out do the previous host State / Zone. I would like to see common sense prevail and get the ANBC to set some strict guidelines in an attempt to bring the costs back to an affordable level for most. |
| Carol: | What can we do to get more consistency in judging and the birds? |
| Nigel: | I guess I have previously answered this question in part. I believe that an annual workshop would go a long way to improving that consistency. Wherever I exhibit or judge, I give comments, positive and negative, on judges that are up and coming, to the State / Zone that they come from. I believe both positive and negative feed back to the Judging controlling body of that State / Zone on that judge is a benefit to all. In Adelaide, when judging with an up and coming judge I let them place the birds and ask for comments why they placed them that way ? I will give my opinion to them, one way or the other in an attempt to get that consistency. But then who is to say my opinion is correct? |
| Carol: | Any other topic you would like to cover? |
| Nigel: |
I don't think you have any room left for another topic ? I do appreciate your interest in interviewing me and I trust that some of the information is of benefit to the readers. My final comment is 'you only get out of the hobby what you put
in, be observant, do not put off until tomorrow what needs doing today
and be assured, you never stop learning'. |
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